It’s got the obvious—vitamin A—which does come in a more potent 1% formula than some of the more lower-strength 0.5% options. Drunk Elephant describes A-Passioni Retinol Cream as "Retinol reimagined. (reference: Didierjean L, Carraux P, Grand D, et al. A skin either already adjusted to strong retinols or a skin on the face of an owner willing to massively buffer it. She contacted the manufacturer to ask ‘How is this causing dryness and peeling when prescription strength doesn’t?” She used this cosmetic retinol product for 2 days after having used prescription tretinoin 0.05% from @Dermatica.skin for a few months. May be mixed with any Drunk Elephant cream or oil. This morning I received a DM from @daniellelouisehay regarding a retinol product she had used from Drunk Elephant that she had quite a strong reaction to. Flash forward to last summer, post Accutane. The statement that silicone slows or prevents absorption of actives like retinol is incorrect. I swore to myself I would never reach for a heavy-duty retinol again—until Drunk Elephant’s A-Passioni 1% Retinol showed up on my desk. Everything in the Drunk Elephant line can be mixed, which means you can combine your serum, moisturizer, and SPF into a single super shot. The first human study of tretinoin on facial wrinkling did not happen until 1983 and every study since has shown similar results – once daily use of tretinoin cream produces significant improvement in fine facial wrinkling associated with chronic sun exposure and biopsy studies confirm an increase in collagen and other positive changes in the dermis. Retinol at 1%. The bottom line is that, as yet, there is not sufficient evidence to state categorically that 1% retinol is equivalent to tretinoin. The compounding vehicle is thus designed to allow penetration of the drug it is mixed with. Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is a 0.5 percent retinol treatment that … Since the early 1980s, up to 92% of subjects using tretinoin in various studies report what has been coined ‘retinoid dermatitis’ – the development of red, itchy, flaky skin at the site of application. In some patients, this is a serious limitation to the use of topical tretinoin and it has also raised the questions as to whether ‘irritation’ is the mechanism underlying the long-term positive repairing effects of treatment. Because some of the ingredients could be comedogenic, I think it's best suited to non-acne-prone skin. All products featured on Glamour are independently selected by our editors. ! There are hundreds of clinical trials investigating the anti-aging effects of topical retinoic acid (tretinoin); it is considered one of the most effective and well-substantiated compounds for treating the signs and symptoms of photodamage and aging skin. ‘Potency’ or ‘efficacy’ are probably more appropriate words to use in this context. Topical retinaldehyde increases skin content of retinoic acid and exerts biologic activity in mouse skin. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni (reviewed here) is a one percent retinol in an oil-based cream. It is formed from the breakdown of beta-carotene. The word ‘retinoid’ is an umbrella term for any product that has an active form of vitamin A in it; it refers to a class of chemical compounds that either contain vitamin A or are chemically related to it. Most patients do get some level of irritation at the beginning of treatment with a topical retinoid but it is not an indicator of efficacy or potency of the product. Using these products exclusively is the best way to get maximum results.” —Tiffany Masterson Even still, it took the ingredients label to convince me the Drunk Elephant retinol would be gentle enough on my skin. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol 5 Month Skin Update! Be sure to only use this a couple of times a … However, we still do not understand the precise mechanism by which topical retinoids work to improve skin wrinkling with photoaging. Continued use over time reveals a brighter, more even complexion and fewer signs of ageing. Retinol treats fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage and pigmentation. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) Peptides, fatty acids and botanicals combine within this on-trend aluminum tube that helps to visibly plump and clear skin in a few nights. What type of vitamin A and % is it? To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. Arch Dermatol 1995: 131; 1037-44). The vehicle has to be inert while also allowing the medication to impart its effect on the skin. To revisit this article, select My⁠ ⁠Account, then View saved stories. One study suggests that it might be due, at least partially, to an ‘overload’ of the retinoic acid-dependent pathway with non-physiologic amounts of exogenous retinoic acid in the skin. See all 248 winners of the Glamour Beauty Awards here. "When I launched Drunk Elephant, I didn't understand retinol," Tiffany Masterson, founder of Drunk Elephant, exclusively tells Allure. It was red, dry, irritated, and peeling, even in the middle of the sticky New York summer. Metabolism of topical retinaldehyde. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum) or anything with acne-fighting … Consider this a glass of water for your thirsty skin. However, the debate is still ongoing about whether or not these ‘downstream’ retinoids are as effective as the gold standard retinoic acid (tretinoin). I’m hopeful it’ll fade my scars for good, but for now I’ll be enjoying the glow. Ad Choices, This Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream Doesn’t Irritate My Sensitive Skin. My once huge pores are almost invisible now, and my fine lines are history. The creamy texture goes on so nicely (it almost feels oily, in a good way), which I’m sure is thanks to all the hydrating ingredients in the formula. The brand’s Vitamin C Serum and D-Bronzi Serum are everything, and people swear by the line’s efficacious yet gentle formulas. A-Passioni contains 1% vegan retinol and peptides to restore bounce, resilience, and clarity in the skin, as well as even skin tone and texture. Of the limited data available, retinaldehyde appears to be the most efficacious (which can also be hypothesised from the metabolism of vitamin A as shown below). Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen. I've started using the Drunk Elephant T.L.C Sukari Babyfacial once a week, TLC Farmboos Glycolic Night serum every other night and Vitamin C serum every night for two weeks now, I am having horrible breakouts! She queried this directly with the manufacturer and received a response. Since retinoids are the only topical treatment that are known to have this type of effect, research into understanding how and why and therefore finding innovative ways to improve the way we use retinoids is a top priority. Indeed, silicones have been used for over 60 years to enhance the drug delivery and efficacy of topical and transdermal products. That’s why tretinoin is the gold standard retinoid for a myriad of both cosmetic and medical dermatological conditions. And, btw, she was probably reacting to the chlorhexidine in the product, not the retinol. Retinoic acid binds to Retinoic acid Receptors (RAR) and Retinoic acid X Receptors (RXR). Retinol has been used in OTC cosmetic products since 1984. (ICYMI, the company finally launched a retinol cream this month.) A-Passioni Retinol Cream is a clean, cutting-edge formula that combines 1.0% vegan retinol with nourishing, superfood-rich ingredients to dramatically diminish the appearance of fine lines, deep wrinkles and sun damage revealing a vibrant, younger-looking complexion." Can the manufacturer please provide the trial data supporting the statement that the retinol in their product is ‘100% bioavailable to skin’? Danielle never experienced irritation or peeling with the Dermatica tretinoin product. Though none of these are silicone-based, chlorhexidine is one of the ingredients and this is known to be a strong irritant to skin. Not to brag, but my skin is the best it’s ever been in my life. @drunkelephant @rivas_nathan @dermatica.skin, ‘The retinol in [the product] is 100% bioavailable to skin because we don’t use any ingredients that would slow or prevent absorption (like siliciones or waxes). Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream is a treatment product for diminishing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage. The most exciting thing is that the pigmentation from all my acne scars is starting to lighten and my tone is looking more even all over. And if it’s too harsh for you at first, the brand says you can mix small amount with other products (like a hydrating moisturizer) to help temper the effects. Even OTC Retinol Can Cause Irritation. ‘We can’t really say why you 0.5% (note from NS: Danielle was using 0.05%, factual error by quoted author) wasn’t as strong, because we don’t know the particulars of the formula.’. Thus, retinol derivatives like retinyl acetate and palmitate are widely used in cosmetic products instead of retinol. The best results for most retinol regimens are seen after six weeks of use. This is potentially how using pre-cursor retinoids like retinaldehyde can prevent this ‘overload’ and thus reduce the irritation. Drunk Elephant completely changed my skin for the better. This is like the skin-care equivalent of a big … More worrying perhaps is the fact that the manufacturer of this cosmetic product is saying that the cosmetic ingredient (retinol) is equivalent to a medicine; By definition a cosmetic product cannot be equivalent to a medicine. The known benefits of topical retinoids are numerous and include renewing of epidermal cells, acting as UV filters, preventing oxidative stress, controlling cutaneous bacterial flora and improving the signs of skin aging and photo aging. The retinoid that actually acts on the skin cells to cause a change is retinoic acid. Studies show that doing this does not reduce the efficacy of the tretinoin, even in acne patients, but it does minimise the irritation. In hopes of lightening the damage, I reached for my trusty retinol. The medication worked wonders on knocking out my constant hormonal acne, and for the first time since middle school, I feel comfortable leaving the house without makeup. Review: retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of safety and efficacy. There are 3 issues the manufacturer raised and I have commented on each one: they relate to silicone in skincare and its effect on the efficacy of actives, why their retinol is supposedly ‘stronger’ than tretinoin, and the concept that a retinol is ‘equivalent’ to tretinoin. I just ordered the full sizes, and they are definitely worth every penny. This morning I received a DM from @daniellelouisehay regarding a retinol product she had used from Drunk Elephant that she had quite a strong reaction to. Two concentrations of topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) cause similar improvement of photoaging but different degree of irritation. ‘1% retinol is equivalent to prescription tretinoin….Also, to be clear, research has long confirmed that 1% retinol is absolutely equivalent to prescription retinoids (i.e. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream “My skincare products shift depending on what season we are in, but washing and moisturizing your face and neck is key all year round! Given that, it’s no surprise that Reddit threads and beauty bloggers freaked out about the brand’s foray into retinol, which took home a Glamour Beauty Award this year. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. A fair word of warning: It might not knock out breakouts entirely for you at first. I’ve only been using it one to three times a week—depending on how my skin is feeling—for the past month, and I’ve definitely noticed a change in the appearance of my skin. The tretinoin used in the prescription Dermatica product is a pharmaceutical grade tretinoin that comes as tretinoin powder and is added in the compounding lab to a vehicle for application to the skin. Now I think of Drunk Elephant as an ingredient-elimination philosophy for a total skin reset. Drunk Elephant F-Balm Electrolyte Waterfacial Mask. Clin Inter Aging 2006:1(4) 327-348.) This leads onto a separate yet very important question: Is the level of irritation you get from a topical retinoid a reflection of its ‘strength’? I highly recommend Drunk Elephant. I consulted Zeichner, and he said it’s normal for some people to get new breakouts after starting a retinol routine because the ingredient causes your skin to purge itself of any blockage in your pores. Silicones…reduce the amount of actives that are available to skin…the fact that [the product] lacks silicones makes it a much faster penetrating formula + you’re getting the full dose is 1% without any loss (re: due to silicones)…’ (note from NS: quote taken verbatim, grammatical errors by quoted author). My skin was evening out and my pores looked smaller, and I got a glimpse of what life could be like with “good” skin. Like the rest of the internet, I’m steadily becoming a convert for the cult of DE. About My Skin: Hormonal acne, dryness, and sensitivity I had completely clear skin until I turned 23, when hormonal acne started to rear its head. Check out @carolinehirons for a detailed, unbiased overview of this DE product. Topical tretinoin was first licensed and used to treat actinic keratoses (sun damage) and acne in 1971. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream: rated 4 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. If irritation occurs, I advise patients to stop using it until their skin is back to normal and then start again. ), Babcock et al (2015) have published a reasonably well-powered split face study in 65 subjects comparing retinol with tretinoin in various concentrations and found that the sustained release retinol complex used in the study was comparable to the tretinoin in producing the desired improvement on photodamaged skin of humans (J Drugs Dermatol. So why does the irritation occur and what can you do about it? Retinol is actually just vitamin A. See 18 member reviews and photos. Or perhaps it was the broccoli extract ;) maybe that should be a new addition to the ‘suspicious 6’? © 2020 Condé Nast. Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream is a really great retinol cream that actually works to smooth out the fine lines and wrinkles on the skin. Drunk Elephant's specific formulation also has what the brand calls a "reservoir effect," meaning it stays active on the skin for up to 72 hours (even after you wash your face). When using this in addition to Drunk Elephant B Hydra Intensive Hydration Gel and Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, the overall tone and texture of my skin drastically improved. Unsurprisingly, the winner was Drunk Elephant’s A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74), a 1% retinol formula my skin was able to tolerate after patiently enduring months of the .1% Differin formula. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement (updated 1/1/20) and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement (updated 1/1/20) and Your California Privacy Rights. All rights reserved. Contains a high one percent concentration of retinol, the gold standard ingredient for anti-aging. Before that, though, the only time my skin had ever been remotely as good as it is now was when my derm prescribed me a topical retinol in hopes of wiping out my acne without resorting to the medication. Danielle asked me my opinion on this response. I had no active breakouts, but my skin was riddled with scarring, particularly on my left cheek where I’d had an explosion of breakouts. I also suggest applying a bland emollient before the tretinoin at bedtime in order to further minimise irritation at the beginning of treatment. Switch to Retriderm or some other retinol product that is … I credit that 100% to a round of Accutane I embarked on last year. Oh, and not only that, I’ve had no zero irritation, redness, or dryness. Even easing myself in (derms recommend using it once a week and slowly building up to everyday use), my skin wasn’t having it. Morning or night, apply a pea-size amount or less to clean, dry face, avoiding the eye area. This picture illustrates the steps required for different types of retinoids to convert into the active form of retinoic acid. The vehicle used to deliver the tretinoin in the compounded prescription Dermatica product has the following ingredients: Purified water, humectants, O/W emulsifier, lubricants, silicone, rheology enhancer, preservative, vitamin E. Silicone is one of the key ingredients in this particular vehicle for tretinoin and it does not cause any problems with efficacy or tolerability. There is some evidence that retinaldehyde 0.05% induces effects similar to those of tretinoin 0.025% (Sorg O, Didierjean L, Saurat JH. The treatments were used once daily for 48 weeks and there was no significant difference in the overall improvement in photoaging produced by the two concentrations but 0.1% tretinoin was significantly more irritating (reference: Griffiths CEM, Kang S, Ellis CN et al. Retinols are the gold standard for treating both wrinkles and acne, since they help accelerate skin regeneration and stimulate collagen. While the retinol didn’t work to fight off my cysts, it did wonders on fading the pigmentation old breakouts had left behind. In the cell, retinoic acid regulates and alters gene expression via binding to Retinoic Acid Response Elements (RARE) which are critical DNA sequences in the promoter regions of select genes. Limit initial use to once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency to every other night, and then every night as tolerated. Throw it into the mix with, say, an AHA (like one of our favorites, Drunk Elephant T.L.C. What skin is it best suited to? Tiffany Masterson, founder of Drunk Elephant, said that when she first launched the brand, she had no intention of including a retinol product because she found it a little scary and there was a lot of misinformation and misconceptions around the product. Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone is also experiencing horrible purging / breakouts after start using Drunk Elephant products? Over the past month, I used this every night with Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream and Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Moisturizer with Ceramide. I used it for a while and it went to trash as it caused me clogged pores and acne (along with strong exfoliation). But that’s offset with additives like nourishing kale and winter cherry, skin-strengthening peptides, and marula and jojoba oils to help prevent any peeling that comes from retinol. Paddock dove into more research and decided to give Drunk Elephant a try after reading reviews. However, very few studies have been performed on OTC retinol products. The Best Drunk Elephant Products Actually Worth Your Money. (Spoiler: It didn’t.) tretinoin)…So retinol works very similarly to prescription retinoids – the results just take longer to see – but nonetheless the fact remains 1% retinol has been established as providing the same end results as prescription retinoids.’. The research is absolutely NOT longstanding or confirmatory. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission. I can provide a review article of the use of silicone in skincare with 76 referenced research articles investigating the successful and efficient use of silicones in topical drug delivery systems. Dermatology 1999;199*suppl 1):13-7. My skin (and wallet) seem to like the The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser and the Thayers Lavender Facial Toner . In order to answer this question, a study was performed comparing the efficacy and irritation of two concentrations of tretinoin cream, 0.1% and 0.025%. Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream – A-Passioni I quit. Brand/Product: Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream. It's also a vegan, plant-based formula; Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, says these becoming increasingly popular because they’re less likely to irritate your skin. However, every study has noted that the vehicle used for retinol delivery is of crucial importance in eliciting its efficacy as retinol is extremely unstable and easily gets degraded to biologically inactive forms on exposure to light and air (Mukherjee et al. I give up. 2015;14(1):24-30.). The texture and feeling is very soft and silky and it immediately makes the skin feel soft and smooth and hydrated. And it made my complexion glowier than ever. It was found to have potent anti-aging effects when a number of women who had used it for facial acne reported an improvement in fine periorbital wrinkling. Disaster struck. Please see some of our patient before and afters on Instagram or contact us for more information. Also has three peptides for skin firming, although these are far less proven than the retinol. Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream – A-Passioni. We’re thrilled she’s come around to this research-backed ingredient and has succeeded in formulating a top-notch retinol … Indeed, the fact that the manufacturers of the cosmetic product state that it takes longer to see a result from the use of retinol in itself is evidence that the two are far from equivalent. Ideal for all those who're already acquainted with the wonders of retinol (this can trigger irritation and peeling if your skin is sensitive, or if you're new to the retinol realm), Drunk Elephant’s game-changing A-Passioni Retinol Cream is the perfect addition to your evening-time routine. (You can read more on “retinol buffering” here.). Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream is a clean, cutting-edge formula that combines 1% vegan retinol with nourishing, superfood-rich ingredients to diminish the appearance of fine lines, deep wrinkles and sun damage…without the associated redness and irritation. Retinol doesn’t break out, but this silicone-heavy cream by SkinCeuticals definitely does. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream – 1% vegan retinol is the key ingredient in this anti-aging night cream, which is designed to help minimize the look of fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration. I generally start my patients on the lowest possible concentration of tretinoin – 0.012% or 0.025% - and start by using it three times a week only for the first 4 weeks. The new Drunk Elephant retinol, A-Passioni 1.0% Retinol Cream, helps smooth and brighten skin, and even works for sensitive complexions. My face was also extra sensitive, since Accutane is notorious for drying out your skin. Simply stated, the less steps required to get to the active form the more effective the topical treatment will be. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream is a retinol treatment. According to Danielle, irritation from this cosmetic product is quite common. Needless to say, after so many "coincidence" of acne and breakouts after using this cleanser, Drunk Elephant truly got some problems with this cleanser and they should keep doing their R&D to … The product in question has 61 ingredients. B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum. Drunk Elephant Daytime and Nighttime Skincare Routines written by Parita 5 Comments I’ve been raving about Drunk Elephant (DE) for a while now and finally managed to get a post together with my thoughts on the products I own. That being said, it is widely acknowledged that, especially in relation to the treatment of acne, increasing the concentration of the retinoid increase efficacy but may reduce tolerability. Drunk ElephantA-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) sounds very, very exciting! Drunk Elephant’s A-Passioni Cream is the brand’s first foray into retinol products due to their founder’s admitted fear and confusion about the many myths surrounding this ingredient. A 1% Retinol that acts to improve skin’s texture while diminishing fine lines and wrinkles, this powerful treatment contains Vitamin F which contains a blend of oils and lipids that protect against skin against environmental stressors. I go into detailed discussion of all three of these topics, including the exact statements made by the manufacturer in their response to Danielle, in my blog – click on the link in my bio. Drunk Elephant is exclusive to MECCA The MECCA view: Combining vegan retinol with skin-nourishing superfood ingredients, this treatment helps restore bounce, resilience and youthfulness to the skin. Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops – This bronzer has the added benefit of protecting the skin from damaging free radicals. Since then there have been at least 5 well controlled human studies indicating that 1% retinol should be effective in the treatment of aging and photoaging. No one really knows what the mechanism is for retinoid dermatitis. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) contains 1% retinol, which is a lot, but there are also peptides and vitamin F to counteract retinol’s drying and potentially irritating effects. My pores are more refined and my skin looks more even, and if I do say so myself, I’m glowing. She had quick results that cleared up her acne and boosted her confidence, she explained in her recent Instagram. This Drunk Elephant retinol has officially earned a permanent spot in my rotation. “Retinol has a very diverse set of biological effects, the main … “When I created Drunk Elephant, I isolated the most effective ingredients that directly benefit the health of the skin. I’ve still gotten a few spots on my cheeks and chin. Retinol has to undergo oxidisation into the active molecule retinoic acid and this is the rate-limiting step in the generation of active retinoic acid in the cell from any type of retinoid pre-cursor. We do not fully understand how or why retinoid dermatitis occurs (see below for a more thorough explanation of this) but we do know that irritation is not a requirement for a topical retinoid to be efficacious; in other words, irritation is not a reflection of the ‘strength’ or ‘potency’ of the retinoid. I mix this in … 5 / 8 Makeup ideas, product reviews, and the latest celebrity trends—delivered straight to your inbox.